An Equine Herpes Virus 1 (EHV-1) outbreak is currently spreading through the Midwest, meaning that practicing proper biosecurity habits in your barn is more important than ever. The virus is highly contagious, is spread through the air or via contaminated equipment, and affects the horse’s central nervous system. The outbreak began with barrel horses and likely spread at show grounds; two affected horses have had to be euthanized.

To protect your horse, good biosecurity habits are necessary. Any new horse that comes onto your property should be quarantined from other horses. If you travel to other barns, it is best to change your clothes and shoes, and thoroughly wash your hands before handling horses on your own farm.

If you travel to a show, keep your horses separated from those of other competitors. Bring along your own water buckets to avoid having your horse drink out of a communal water trough. Fill buckets by holding the hose above the bucket – don’t drop the hose into the bucket, since this could cross-contaminate the water.

Bring your own equipment to the show, including a pitchfork. You should only use your own tack and grooming kit on your horse; keep everything separate and secured in your trailer so your equipment can’t accidentally be used on another horse. Wash your hands frequently, and always wash them before and after handling your horse.

You will also want to carefully watch your horse’s health during and after the event. A horse with EHV-1 typically presents with a fever, coughing, nasal discharge, and a depressed appearance. Some horses may go off of their feed. Horses with neurological symptoms may seem off-balance, have difficulty rising or standing, and appear uncoordinated. If you suspect that your horse has EHV-1, call your veterinarian immediately and quarantine your horse from any other horses on the property.   

Many shows and events in the Midwest have been cancelled until the outbreak is brought under control. While the virus does not affect humans, it can prove fatal for horses. Anyone competing or traveling in the United States should use caution and good biosecurity practices.

(Also known as the Hamley Twist, Nevada Twist, Cowboy Twist, and Arizona Twist)

Do the stirrup leathers of your Western saddle strain your knees? Is the traditional method of a broomstick through the stirrups not cutting it as far as twisting them? Learning how to twist and wrap your stirrup leathers can increase your comfort in the saddle and relieve the stress on your knees. For lack of finding a saddle shop who could do it for me, I decided to try it myself. It ended up costing me less than $20!

I searched the internet for one site with easy to understand visual step-by-step instructions. I didn't exactly find that, though, so I took bits and pieces from what I could find and below is what I ended up doing. I did have an advantage in that I have a Crates saddle I purchased used which has wrapped stirrup leathers (I don't believe it came from Crates that way though), which gave me something to copy!

First, a photo of the wrapped stirrup leather on the Crates saddle that I followed as an example.

Supplies You Will Need:

1. Utility knife
2. One piece of 1/2" x 72" latigo (I bought a pack of Weaver saddle strings at Tractor Supply)
3. (Optional) Piece of baler twine
4. Saddle Oil (I used Hydrophane Darkening Oil since I had it on hand and my saddle is mahogany)
5. A bucket and warm water
6. Towel
   

Step 1: To get ready, put your saddle on a saddle stand. Remove the stirrup hobbles, unbuckle the Blevin Buckles and remove the stirrups. Oil both sides of the length of fender neck and stirrup leathers which will be set and wrapped. Reverse the sliding piece of the Blevins Buckle and turn the piece with the prongs so that it now fastens facing the horse.

After I oiled the saddle, I left it to sit as pictured for two days (I don't know that it's necessary to let it sit, but that's what I did and the leather was nice and supple when I went to fold it).

Step 2: Take the utility knife and cut a slit near one end of the length of latigo. You want the slit wide enough to feed the other end of the latigo strap through. (If using a 72" length of latigo, you may want to cut it in half so it's easier to work with.)

Step 3: Practice the wrap. I practiced wrapping the leather on an old pole.

• To start the wrap, slip the one end of the latigo through the slit you made near the other end (making a loop) and pull strap snug (but not too tight at this point) around the pole, then continue with three more full spiral wraps around the pole. 
  
• Feed the latigo up and beneath the wraps (which will actually be easier on the stirrup leathers because you'll be feeding it up through the hollow of the folded stirrup leather), coming over the top of the first wrap, then feeding it back down underneath the remaining three wraps of strap. 
  
• Snug it up tight to see what your finished wrap will look like. Don't cut the excess the excess leather off though, because this was just practice and you'll want to use the latigo strap for your actual wrapping of the stirrup leathers.

Step 4: Get your bucket with very warm water and soak the length of stirrup leather for 3 or 4 minutes. Remove the leather and and dab it dry with a hand towel.

Now you are ready to do the actual wrap! (Note in the photo below, the view of the wrap is upside-down compared to that shown on the practice pole in the above photo.)

Step 5: Fold the rough sides of the leathers together. Since I didn't have someone around to help hold, I used baler twine to tie my folded leathers. Start wrapping; start by placing the looped end of the latigo closest to the buckle end, same as you practiced, continue with 3 more spirals. Again, at this point, don't wrap too tightly because you will be feeding the one end of the latigo up between the folded leather.

You're almost finished. You may have to loosen the leather wrapping just enough to feed the strap down under the 3 wraps.  Don't worry, you'll be able to snug it up and tighten as the last step.


See, pulled tight!

Step 6: Now just cut off the extra length of latigo strap....

put your stirrup back on, fasten the Blevins Buckle in the position so it is now facing the horse, buckle your stirrup hobble....

AND you have your finished project.... twisted & wrapped stirrups!

About the Author: Valerie Whalen has owned horses since 1974. She originally published this article on her blog, but was kind enough to allow us to republish it to share with our readers. If you enjoyed this article, please leave a comment letting Valerie know!

You may think that your First-Aid kit is well stocked with bandages, ointments, and an equine thermometer. But stocking up on these unusual items will make caring for your horse’s injuries and illnesses so much easier.

Finger Cots – While you probably have a box of disposable surgical gloves hanging out in your First-Aid kit, it’s a shame to waste an entire glove every time that you need to put ointment on a horse’s wound. Pick up a package of finger cots – they easily slip onto just your finger to keep it clean while you administer ointments.

Empty Dish Detergent Bottle – Thoroughly washed out, an empty dish detergent bottle can make washing out wounds, especially on a horse’s legs, easier.

Diapers – Diapers make excellent hoof bandages when treating a horse for an abscess.

Headlamp – If you’ve ever tried to treat a horse’s injuries at night, you know that no matter how you position yourself, shadows always seem to get in the way. A small headlamp will keep injuries illuminated as you work, while leaving your hands free. Just be careful not to direct its beam towards your horse’s eyes.

Tube Socks – Tube socks can fit over your horse’s hoof to keep a poultice in place. They’re easy to slip on and wash, and best of all, they’re cheap!

Empty Saline Bags – The next time that your vet visits your barn, ask if he can give you a few empty large saline bags. Cut one end off of the bag and it’s instantly transformed into a hoof soaking boot. If your horse has an abscess, slip his hoof into the bag, fill it up with water and whatever you choose to use as a drawing agent, and let the horse stand and soak. The bag is firm enough to often stand up on its own, but you can also tape the top while the horse stands.

Treating an injured horse is never pleasant, but these unusual items can make the job a bit easier. What creative items are in your First-Aid kit?

With spring finally arriving, are you starting to clean your barn? Here are ten chores that you should definitely add to your cleaning list, both for your horse’s health and the safety of your barn.

Sweep the Feed Room
Sweep out all of the old, spilled feed and dust that have accumulated over the winter. While you’re at it, sweep out the hay loft and get rid of any old hay. Be sure that you only sweep while your horses are turned out – the dust you stir up could irritate their respiratory systems.

Check Feed
When you’re sweeping out the feed room, check the feed that you’ve stored to make sure that it’s not spoiled. Take a look at the expiration dates on supplements, and check feed bags for holes where mice may have chewed into them. Throw out any feed or supplements that have spoiled or expired.

Remove Cobwebs
Remove any cobwebs that have formed over the winter – along with making your barn look messy, they are a fire hazard. While you’re at it, check your fire extinguishers and smoke alarms. Replace the batteries in your smoke alarms and make sure that your fire extinguishers have not passed their expiration dates.

Check Your Saddle Fit
You should check your saddle fit frequently throughout the course of the year, but make a point of checking its fit every spring. If your horse’s workload decreased during the winter, his muscles and back shape can change, altering the way that his saddle fits. You may need to adjust the pads that you use or, if you have a saddle with interchangeable gullets, change your saddle’s gullet size.

Repair Your Fencing
Winter weather and its freezing and thawing can take a toll on your paddock fences. Take the time to check your fences and make any repairs necessary. Your horse’s safety could depend on it.

Schedule Your Horse’s Vet Appointment
Your horse’s spring appointment with his vet is an important one. Schedule it early to be sure that your horse receives his necessary vaccinations. The appointment can also be a great time to discuss the proper deworming program for your horse, and to ask the vet about any questions you may have.

Clean and Condition Your Tack
In preparation for the increased riding that you’ll be doing throughout the spring and summer, clean and condition your tack thoroughly. As you clean, look for any areas that may need repair and have them professionally repaired before you use the equipment.

Wash Your Horse’s Blankets
In preparing to pack away your horse’s winter blankets, wash them all so that they’re ready for next season. If you choose to wash them yourself, be sure to only use a soap intended for use on horse blankets so that the blankets’ waterproofing remains intact. You may also choose to send the blankets out to have them professionally laundered.

Restock Your First-Aid Kit
Make spring cleaning the time that you assess your First-Aid kit. Replenish any supplies that are running low. Check the expiration dates of any medications that you have, and replace those that have expired. Your First-Aid kit will be ready and waiting when you need it the most.

Update Your Emergency Contact Information
Check all of the phone numbers that you have listed for your horse – are they all still current? Update any numbers necessary to make sure that you, your vet, and your farrier can all be reached in the event that they’re needed.

What other tasks do you include in your barn spring cleaning?